Art Smith Trail to Cat Canyon Oasis

DAY THREE HUNDRED AND SIXTY

After yesterday's "take it easy" hike: I decided to do something a little more challenging today. As usual, I didn't have as much time as I would've liked and ended up hiking back in the dark but I'm used to it by now. The wife isn't, though, and she called me twice to make sure I was still alive. I don't think I have ever been more so.

It seems that I'm not the only one out to burn off a few Christmas calories. While the Art Smith is certainly the best trail in Palm Desert, this is, by far, the most cars I've ever seen in the trailhead parking lot. I don't even want to imagine how many people are at the Bump and Grind trailhead parking area today.

I have a little over nine miles to go and less than two hours of daylight left so I put my head down and get moving up the trail. One bad thing about keeping your eye on the trail is that you miss a lot of the scenery. I hiked right past a whole herd of Bighorn Sheep and didn't even see them. I talked to a lady on the trail and she asked if I saw the sheep and, when I told her no, she said they were back a few hundred yards. Some things are worth turning around for.

I tried to get as close as possible but they were wary and retreated when I moved their direction. They didn't go far but they knew I was there. (Click on this or any picture for a closer view).

This guy is the obvious leader of this herd of at least nine.

Here's a closer look.

You'll have to click on this picture to enlarge it but eight Bighorn are here. It's like Where's Waldo trying to find them all. It's amazing how well they blend it. I could have possibly gotten closer to them but with other people on the trail I did not want to take a chance of a scaring them away. Whenever I come upon a scene like this I realize that my next big investment has to be a really good camera.

I wanted to just stay and watch the sheep all day but I had places to go so off I went. The trail passes several palm oases before coming to the Cat Canyon Palms.

It also gains a good amount of elevation.

I wonder what the wife is making for dinner tonight. For some reason, I have a hankering for asparagus.

The trail levels off as you get near Haystack Mountain and then actually starts going down. I hate it when trails start losing elevation that you've already gained.

This benchmark is right next to the trail. Not too interesting, just coordinates.

But it's not long after that when Cat Canyon Palms comes into view.

I won't have much time to look around but I'm sure this was an area that the Indians used.

It's a very healthy oasis and there is surface water available. I'm not going to stomp around in here today but some time I'd like to investigate this whole area more. I think there's another, even larger, oasis up a bit further but this one is all I'll have time for today.

There is a little trail leaving the oasis and I'll take a shortcut whenever I can get one.

With the sun having already set I won't have much light left before the headlamp comes out of the pack and it'll just me, the moon, the stars and the trail.

But before that happens I get to enjoy the wonder of an area that few visitors to the desert, or even locals, will ever see.

Classic Palm Desert Hiking: The Original Art Smith Trail

DAY THREE HUNDRED AND FIFTEEN

Of the trails in Palm Desert, the Art Smith Trail is my personal favorite. It starts near Highway 74 near the Santa Rosa and San Jacinto National Monument Visitors Center and heads into the heart of the Santa Rosa Mountains. The trail originally headed up Dead Indian Canyon before steering north and into the hills. Now, the trail goes up the hill nearer the trailhead in order to avoid Bighorn Sheep habitat. Today I hiked up the original trail.

There is a really good parking area at the trailhead and the trail is well marked, at least at the beginning.

The sign directs you to the NEW Art Smith Trail but that's not where I'm going today. If you want to get to the original Art Smith Trail, stay on the left of the wash next to the mountain and don't take this trail that switchbacks up the hill.

You'll come to this gate which is open for three months from October-December.

You can stay in the wash or hike up the higher dune on the left. Either way it's very sandy. In the distance is Dead Indian Palms.

Turn before getting to the Palms into the large, obvious canyon on the right. There is a large canyon on the left, Grapevine Canyon, but this is a very rugged canyon with no trail.

This classic trail sign was the only marker for this trail for years. It is still the coolest sign here.

Since the new trail was built this trail has not seen much use and is in poor shape in areas. Previously it was one of the valley's most used trails. I much prefer it to the new trail because of the view of the palms and the feeling of being alone in the wilderness.

Near the junction of the new and old trail is this rocky viewpoint. This is a good place to stop and enjoy your surroundings and a sandwich.

The view is wonderful from up here and I'd like to sit up here and enjoy it all day but some of us have to work today but I'd recommend this trail for anyone looking for a nice, short hike with great views and a chance to spot a Bighorn Sheep. Plus, if you want a longer hike you can keep going all the way to Palm Springs. All those things combine to make this the best hike in Palm Desert.

Carrizo Canyon, Palm Desert

DAY TWO HUNDRED AND NINETY FIVE

This week I have gone to Dead Indian Canyon and Magnesia Spring Canyon, both of which are only open for three months of the year, from October-December. Today I went to another canyon with limited access, Carrizo Canyon.

You pick up the canyon by heading south from the Art Smith Trailhead. Nine months out of the year this gate is locked but it's unlocked for now.

If there were any doubt which way to go this sign is here to help the directionally challenged.

The canyon is wide and sandy at the bottom but will quickly narrow and get rocky.

As you enter the canyon the sides quickly become steep. I looked to see if there might be an Indian Trail leaving the canyon but there's no way anything leaves here. It's too loose and steep. I still think there might be a trail leaving somewhere near here and heading south but it'll take a little more detective work to find it.

When you get to into the canyon there's this BBQ in the middle of nowhere. It's crazy and I cannot figure out why it's here. Of course, in the "old days" people used to be able to drive here so maybe this was Party Central back then.

This is a good place to possibly spot a Bighorn but I don't have any luck doing so today.

There is one lone palm in the entire canyon. You know there's water here although none is on the surface. There are numerous barrel cacti in the canyon that have been eaten, a sure sign that Bighorn are present. Maybe I'll try the canyon some morning to see if my luck is better.

At a split in canyon, there are these directions. Too bad they're wrong. Dead Indian Creek is in a completely different canyon and Carrizo is misspelled.

When you turn right into CARRIZO Canyon, you come to a dry waterfall rather quickly. In the spring, this fall often flows and is covered with ferns; it's very beautiful. The fall is easy to climb over to continue up the canyon but daylight is going goodnight and I want to get home to root on my Angels.

Short but sweet says it all.

Art Smith Trail Loop

DAY TWO HUNDRED AND NINETY ONE

A couple of days ago I went out intending to hike the Art Smith Trail but upon finding Dead Indian Canyon open decided to go there instead. Today I made good on my intent to hike the Art Smith and rather than just hike it as an out and back I hiked up the new Art Smith and then came down the original Art Smith. I'd never done this before so the novelty and the absolutely perfect weather made this a very pleasant little outing.

The sun is already down when I start hiking and the air still. It's perfect.

Today I take the trail instead of following the wash.

On the trail this Giant Swallowtail Butterfly rests on a Catclaw Acacia. It looks like some bird or bat swallowed part of this one's tail.

Higher on the trail I see that the desecration of the desert mountains continues. The only thing that makes me madder than closure of trails is that building up in the mountains continues unabated even as they close hiking areas. Money talks.

The other day I noted that the Dead Indian Palms Oasis used to have running water but in recent years has been dry. I wonder where all the water went to?

I hike around and get to the Schey Trail. This is but one of many trails Mr. Schey built in the area. They all have the same name, too.

On the right, just after this trail junction I take a little trail that leads me to the original Art Smith Trail which I will take back down.

The original sign painted by Mr. Schey just so there's no mistake as to who built this trail.

The trail down to Dead Indian Canyon hasn't been maintained in years but it's still there.

Although it is certainly eroded in a few areas.

Between the new and the old Art Smith I really prefer the old trail. On the old trail you get to hike further up the canyon before you start gaining elevation, you don't have to hike near the abomination of hillside development and the sign is WAY better. Too bad it's only open three months out of the year.

Dead Indian Canyon, Palm Desert

DAY TWO HUNDRED AND EIGHTY NINE

Dead Indian Canyon is a wonderful little paradise in South Palm Desert. The hike is not hard but it's fun due to some rock hopping involved and the potential of finding running water in the canyon. The palm oasis in the canyon is a terrific destination for a family hike or just a morning or afternoon jaunt. When I first moved to the desert, way back in the mid 80s, people could drive way back into the canyon and hippies used to come back here and party a lot. Today, it's not possible to drive very far into the canyon so not too much partying goes on these days.

When I went to the trailhead. I fully expected to be hiking on the Art Smith Trail. The last time I went to Dead Indian Canyon, the canyon was closed and there was not signage indicating when, or if, it would be opening again.

The gate is open and evidently will be until December 31. The best time of the year to hike here is in the Spring but unfortunately that's the time it's closed. It's seems silly to me because in the Spring the Bighorn have ample forage and water throughout the Santa Rosas and if they needed to close the canyon at all, the Fall would be the season the Sheep most need to be here undisturbed.

According to legend, the canyon and oasis get its name from some early visitors who heard weird sounds at night and assumed it was from an Indian spirit. I've heard weird sounds at night here but I always just assumed it was the wind in the palm fronds.

The fun part of this hike begins when the wash ends and the rocks begin. I love this type of rock hopping.

This collared lizard settles down for the evening with a rock pillow.

The oasis is in very good shape although there is not surface water visible. Years ago this oasis always had water and the water sometimes ran down the canyon. In recent years, though, water has been sparse and the last time I saw water in this canyon was the wet winter we had about four or five years ago.

I don't head into the palms or to the dry waterfall beyond them. It's getting late and I don't want to scramble down those rocks in the dark. As much as I like rock hopping I don't relish the idea of doing it in the dark.

On the way out of the canyon I see three sheep high on the canyon walls. My good camera hasn't been repaired yet so I can't get a real close shot. But that's OK because the sheep have been here for years and will continue to live in the cliffs around this oasis.

And another thing hasn't changed after all these years: hippies still come here, too.